Make a Donut Chuck

I needed to make a donut chuck so that I could mount a 12″ bowl on my lathe and finish off the bottom of the bowl. I have a set of cole jaws for my jaw chuck, but they will only expand 10″.

You can click on any of the images to see a larger version.

The first step was to take a 16″ x 16″ x 3/4″ piece of plywood and find the center. I marked out three circles of 9″, 15″ and 15 3/4″ diameter. I laid out eight points on the 15″ diameter circle and drilled 5/16″ holes and inserted 1/4-20 tee nuts at each of these points.

I took another piece of 16″ x 16″ x 3/4″ plywood and placed it below the first piece. Using a transfer punch, I transferred the centers of the eight tee nuts to the second piece of plywood and then drilled 1/4″ holes at each of these points. I bolted the two pieces together using 1 1/2″ 1/4-20 bolts and cut the two pieces of plywood round, just outside of the 15 3/4″ circle. I used my jigsaw to do this as the workpiece would not have sat flush on my band saw table and I did not want the heads of the bolts to scratch my band saw table. As an aside, I used the new Xtra-Clean (T308B) blades from Bosch and was impressed at how easily they cut and how clean the cut was on both the top and bottom of the plywood.

Using my center finder I located a face plate I have dedicated to this donut chuck and attached it securely to the first piece of plywood.

I mounted the face plate and plywood pieces on the lathe and turned both pieces perfectly round. I marked a 9″ diameter circle on the front piece and drilled a 1/.4″ hole through both pieces using a drill chuck in the tail stock. I took the piece of the lathe and drilled a 5/16″ hole 3/8″ deep in the back piece of plywood and inserted a 1/4″ tee nut in that hole. Then I bolted both pieces together suing another 1 1/2″ 1/4-20 bolt.

I remounted the piece on the lathe and made a mark on the sides of the plywood pieces to help align the two pieces. Using a parting tool, I cut the 9″ diameter circle out of the front piece of plywood. I cut at an angle from the center out and took care to make sure I did not cut too deeply into the back piece of plywood. Because of the tapered cut and the center bolt the internal circle did not come loose. I had to remove all 9 bolts to take it out.

Lastly I cut a piece of high friction router pad cloth and using spray adhesive attached it to the inside face of the front section. This will help to both hold and protect the surface of the bowl.

The tee nut inserted in the center of the back piece can be used to mount a scrap piece of plywood to. A tenon that matches the internal diameter of a bowl can then be turned onto that scrap piece enabling you to mount the bowl in the donut chuck directly on center.

In my excitement at how easily the bowl mounted and how smooth and true it ran, I forgot to take a picture of the mounted bowl before I finished off the bottom. Here is a shot of the bowl mounted in the donut chuck, with the bottom finished and sanded.

Make Your Own Buffing Wheel Mandrel

Instead of buying an expensive mandrel for buffing and grinding wheels, I decided to make one for very little cost, or time involved, for use on my Wilton mini-lathe. In about 45 minutes had it completed and mounted on the lathe.

Materials include two 1 1/2 inch thick blocks (turned from scrap pieces), 1/2 inch dowel, and the 1/2 inch bushing that came with the buffing and grinding wheels. Note the 1/2 inch holes drilled in each block to receive the 1/2 dowel (arbor). The holes are 1 inch deep.

Dowel with bushing ready to insert through the buffing wheel.

Dowel inserted with bushing in the arbor hole of the wheel. Note the dowel length is cut 1/2 inch shorter than the combined 1 inch deep holes in the turning (compression) blocks, plus the thickness of the wheel.

Assembly is complete with turning blocks over the dowel and ready to mount on the lathe. When chucked up between centers on the lathe the buffing wheel will be in compression and will not slip between the blocks with the proper amount of pressure applied.

wood lathe part and Accessories

Unless a workpiece has a taper machined onto it which perfectly matches the internal taper in the spindle, or has threads which perfectly match the external threads on the spindle (two things which almost never happen), an accessory must be used to mount a workpiece to the spindle.

A workpiece may be bolted or screwed to a faceplate, a large flat disk that mounts to the spindle. Alternatively faceplate dogs may be used to secure the work to the faceplate.

A workpiece may be clamped in a three- or four-jaw chuck, which mounts directly to the spindle or mounted on a mandrel.

In precision work (and in some classes of repetition work), cylindrical workpieces are invariably held in a collet inserted into the spindle and secured either by a drawbar, or by a collet closing cap on the spindle. Suitable collets may also be used to mount square or hexagonal workpieces. In precision toolmaking work such collets are usually of the draw in variety, where, as the collet is tightened, the workpiece moves slightly back into the headstock, whereas for most repetition work the dead length variety is preferered as this ensures that the position of the workpiece does not move as the collet is tightened, so the workpiece can be set in the lathe to a fixed position and it will not move on tightening the collet.

A soft workpiece (wooden) may be pinched between centers by using a spur drive at the headstock, which bites into the wood and imparts torque to it.

A soft dead center is used in the headstock spindle as the work rotates with the centre. Because the centre is soft it can be trued in place before use. The included angle is 60 degrees. Traditionally a hard dead center is used together with suitable lubricant in the tailstock to support the workpiece. In modern practice the dead center is frequently replaced by a live center or (revolving center) as it turns freely with the workpiece usually on ball bearings, reducing the frictional heat, which is especially important at high RPM. When clear facing work that must be supported on both ends but cannot be accommodated with a steady rest, a half dead center, also known as a notch center, can be used. A lathe carrier or lathe dog may also be employed when turning between two centers.

In woodturning, one subtype of a live center is a cup center, which is a cone of metal surrounded by an annular ring of metal that decreases the chances of the workpiece splitting.

A circular metal plate with even spaced holes around the periphery, mounted to the spindle, is called an "index plate". It can be used to rotate the spindle a precise number of degrees, then lock it in place, facilitating repeated auxiliary operations done to the workpiece.

Modes of use

When a workpiece is fixed between the headstock and the tailstock, it is said to be "between centers". When a workpiece is supported at both ends, it is more stable, and more force may be applied to the workpiece, via tools, at a right angle to the axis of rotation, without fear that the workpiece may break loose.

When a workpiece is fixed only to the spindle at the headstock end, the work is said to be "face work". When a workpiece is supported in this manner, less force may be applied to the workpiece, via tools, at a right angle to the axis of rotation, lest the workpiece rip free. Thus, most work must be done axially, towards the headstock, or at right angles, but gently.

When a workpiece is mounted with a certain axis of rotation, worked, then remounted with a new axis of rotation, this is referred to as "eccentric turning" or "multi axis turning". The result is that various cross sections of the workpiece are rotationally symmetric, but the workpiece as a whole is not rotationally symmetric. This technique is used for camshafts, various types of chair legs.

[edit] Varieties

The smallest lathes are "jewelers lathes" or "watchmaker lathes", which are small enough that they may be held in one hand. The workpieces machined on a jeweler's lathes are metal, jeweler's lathes can be used with hand-held "graver" tools or with compound rests that attach to the lathe bed. Graver tools are generally supported by a T-rest, not fixed to a cross slide or compound rest. The work is usually held in a collet. Common spindle bore sizes are 6 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm. The term W/W refers to the Webster/Whitcomb collet and lathe, invented by the American Watch Tool Company of Waltham, Massachussetts. Most lathes commonly referred to as watchmakers lathes are of this design. In 1909, the American Watch Tool company introduced the Magnus type collet (a 10-mm body size collet) using a lathe of the same basic design, the Webster/Whitcomb Magnus. (F.W.Derbyshire, Inc. retains the trade names Webster/Whitcomb and Magnus and still produces these collets.) Two bed patterns are common: the WW (Webster Whitcomb) bed, a truncated triangular prism (found only on 8 and 10 mm watchmakers' lathes); and the continental D-style bar bed (used on both 6 mm and 8 mm lathes by firms such as Lorch and Star). Other bed designs have been used, such a triangular prism on some Boley 6.5 mm lathes, and a V-edged bed on IME's 8 mm lathes.

Smaller metalworking lathes that are larger than jewelers' lathes and can sit on a bench or table, but offer such features as tool holders and a screw-cutting gear train are called hobby lathes, and larger versions, "bench lathes". Even larger lathes offering similar features for producing or modifying individual parts are called "engine lathes". Lathes of these types do not have additional integral features for repetitive production, but rather are used for individual part production or modification as the primary role.

Lathes of this size that are designed for mass manufacture, but not offering the versatile screw-cutting capabilities of the engine or bench lathe, are referred to as "second operation" lathes.

Lathes with a very large spindle bore and a chuck on both ends of the spindle are called "oil field lathes".

Fully automatic mechanical lathes, employing cams and gear trains for controlled movement, are called screw machines.

Lathes that are controlled by a computer are CNC lathes.

Lathes with the spindle mounted in a vertical configuration, instead of horizontal configuration, are called vertical lathes or vertical boring machines. They are used where very large diameters must be turned, and the workpiece (comparatively) is not very long.

A lathe with a cylindrical tailstock that can rotate around a vertical axis, so as to present different tools towards the headstock (and the workpiece) are turret lathes.

A lathe equipped with indexing plates, profile cutters, spiral or helical guides, etc., so as to enable ornamental turning is an ornamental lathe.

Various combinations are possible: for example, a vertical lathe have CNC as well (such as a CNC VTL).

Lathes can be combined with other machine tools, such as a drill press or vertical milling machine. These are usually referred to as combination lathes.

wood lathe part and Accessories

A lathe may or may not have a stand (or legs), which sits on the floor and elevates the lathe bed to a working height. Some lathes are small and sit on a workbench or table, and do not have a stand.

Almost all lathes have a bed, which is (almost always) a horizontal beam (although some CNC lathes have a vertical beam for a bed to ensure that swarf, or chips, falls free of the bed). A notable exception is the Hegner VB36 Master Bowlturner, a woodturning lathe designed for turning large bowls, which in its basic configuration is little more than a very large floor-standing headstock.

At one end of the bed (almost always the left, as the operator faces the lathe) is a headstock. The headstock contains high-precision spinning bearings. Rotating within the bearings is a horizontal axle, with an axis parallel to the bed, called the spindle. Spindles are often hollow, and have exterior threads and/or an interior Morse taper on the "inboard" (i.e., facing to the right / towards the bed) by which workholding accessories may be mounted to the spindle. Spindles may also have exterior threads and/or an interior taper at their "outboard" (i.e., facing away from the bed) end, and/or may have a handwheel or other accessory mechanism on their outboard end. Spindles are powered, and impart motion to the workpiece.

The spindle is driven, either by foot power from a treadle and flywheel or by a belt drive to a power source. In some modern lathes this power source is an integral electric motor, often either in the headstock, to the left of the headstock, or beneath the headstock, concealed in the stand.

In addition to the spindle and its bearings, the headstock often contains parts to convert the motor speed into various spindle speeds. Various types of speed-changing mechanism achieve this, from a cone pulley or step pulley, to a cone pulley with back gear (which is essentially a low range, similar in net effect to the two-speed rear of a truck), to an entire gear train similar to that of a manual-shift auto transmission. Some motors have electronic rheostat-type speed controls, which obviates cone pulleys or gears.

The counterpoint to the headstock is the tailstock, sometimes referred to as the loose head, as it can be positioned at any convenient point on the bed, by undoing a locking nut, sliding it to the required area, and then relocking it. The tailstock contains a barrel which does not rotate, but can slide in and out parallel to the axis of the bed, and directly in line with the headstock spindle. The barrel is hollow, and usually contains a taper to facilitate the gripping of various type of tooling. Its most common uses are to hold a hardened steel centre, which is used to support long thin shafts while turning, or to hold drill bits for drilling axial holes in the work piece. Many other uses are possible.^[2]

Metalworking lathes have a carriage (comprising a saddle and apron) topped with a cross-slide, which is a flat piece that sits crosswise on the bed, and can be cranked at right angles to the bed. Sitting atop the cross slide is a toolpost, which holds a cutting tool which removes material from the workpiece. There may or may not be a leadscrew, which moves the cross-slide along the bed.

Woodturning and metal spinning lathes do not have cross-slides, but rather have banjos, which are flat pieces that sit crosswise on the bed. The position of a banjo can be adjusted by hand; no gearing is involved. Ascending vertically from the banjo is a toolpost, at the top of which is a horizontal toolrest. In woodturning, hand tools are braced against the tool rest and levered into the workpiece. In metal spinning, the further pin ascends vertically from the tool rest, and serves as a fulcrum against which tools may be levered into the workpiece.

Using a Wood Lathe part 4

Tool Process in Spindle Turning
Exercise A-I-l-a. Straight Cuts


1. THE ROUGHING CUT (LARGE GOUGE).
Place the gouge on the rest so that the bevel is above the wood and the cutting edge is tangent to the circle or surface of the cylinder. The handle should be held well down.
Roll the gouge over slightly to the right so that it will make a shearing cut instead of a scraping cut. This rolling of the tool will also throw the chips from the operator.
Then lift the handle slowly, forcing the cutting edge deep enough into the wood to remove all or nearly all of the corners, at the end of the work which is being turned. This cut is begun about ¾" from the dead center end. Work back another ¾", moving toward the live center and make a second cut, and so on until the entire length of the cylinder is gone over. This method of removing corners should always be followed to- avoid any possibility of breaking a large sliver from the stock, with consequent danger to the worker.
The tool may then be worked from one end to the other, getting a fairly-smooth, regular surface, slightly above the diameter required. However, do not begin on the very edge of the cylinder end. It is better to begin about 2" from one end and work to the other, and then reverse and work back.
The tool should also be held at a slight angle to the axis of the cylinder, with the cutting point always in advance of the handle.
2. THE SIZING CUT (SMALL GOUGE).
Set the calipers to the required diameter of the cylinder.
With a small gouge held in the right hand scrape groves about 1" apart, holding the calipers in the left hand perpendicular to the cylinder and measuring the cuts as they are made. The scraping should continue unitil the calipers will pass easily over the cylinder. It will be well while scraping to work the handle of the gouge a little from side to side so that the nose has more clearance. This will prevent the piece which is being turned from chattering or vibrating.
The calipers will be slightly sprung by coming in contact with the revolving stock but this error in diameter will be removed by the finishing cut which removes these marks from the finished cylinder.
3. THE SMOOTHING CUT (LARGE SKEW).
FIG. 6. Lay the skew chisel on the rest with the cutting edge above the cylinder and at an angle of about 60 to the surface.
Slowly draw the chisel back and at the same time raise the handle until the chisel begins to cut about ¼" to 3/8' from the heel. The first cut is begun from 1"' to 2" from either end and is pushed toward the near end. Then begin at the first starting point and cut toward the other end. One should never start at the end to make a cut as there is danger that the chisel will catch and cause the wood to split or that the chisel will be torn from the hands.
The first cut takes off the bumps and rings left by the gouge, and takes the stock down so one can just see where teh scraping to size was done. Then take the last cut and remove all traces of these, leavinf the cylinder perfectly smooth and of the required diameter at each end. Test the cylinder for accuracy with a straight edge

Using a Wood Lathe part 3

Turning Spindles

In this area and is close to love. Most of my experience serves to open the table. The first round, only 2 ½ way between center and "GAP was (bed). This is really just in a small cup with me and my ideas for turning you for a very limited selection is available Nice bowl was like. Since then,, 7" with the permission of, more got a big round center techniques such as turning on and off, without limitation may provide insight found. However, the pin was shooting always my greatest passion of the old walls of shops and stores my walls have been proud. This course begins into the world's tables.

National of a tower, where labor camp firmly between live and dead centers, all studies to apply the concept of the rotary switch. Two methods commonly used on wood: the first and the second method or model, scraping, cutting method. There are advantages and disadvantages of each, but is defined for the development of one or two exaggerated gymnast is required. Instead of each method used should be provided. First player for a specific task, hard on the cutting edge tools, few have slowly and the second is faster and easier cutting edge tools, and the result was precisely depends on the capacity. As a professional what the most desirable back, all full rotation and a few national exceptions, panel, and Chuck Turning for advice with the help of the method is cutting.

Share Center

If the wood to have square or rectangular, wedge angle until the end to find the best way to center a diagonal up to a point x. To find the middle of the intersection is considered. If you start to fix the tower as soon after you set, you can "free hand" best guess round.
If you own any shares in the first place as many rectangular band saw will be easier (if a bit far to do) the central acres.
O other, square cutting edges of the square stock in a corporation instead of an octagonal interesting. They have completed much easier. Mark to center before.

Tower block SHARE

The center of the forehead and a hammer with the axis line drive deep into the forest drive. Timber line was never seriously in the middle axis of May because of injury, through the application machine. If the wood is very hard to use, in accordance with these cross-cutting exercise and a good intersection for drilling a hole, so I saw it more comfortable to wood. Forest, where the other end of Wax o (even) this bed dead will return.
Now, central location and runs the operations center and shaft them by forcing a sudden increase in hand. After ½ tail about "the" game from the end of the tail shaft will be moved after 1 shot behind the tail. Queue then to bed. Turn the equipment used wood is held firmly on the tail wheel. At the same time so that the cup dead center WorkTurn hand, or deep timber zorlanıyorlar.AGİT Center live, so deeply that the live center is not open. , Dead wrong pin and pin spindles turn freely starts to live up to clamp fast death.

Tools for REST SET

Vehicles should be set to rest horizontally about 1 / 8 "wood corner away from the size of projections and the stock market declines should be adapted. Quantity some" varies depending on the size of the operator. 1 for one person or even a short distance is the center of PIN / 8 "on the average person and a ¼" long for a person above. As long as the vehicle because the corner store where the rest of the receiving machine to take a risk and can be set in motion when the machine is never. everything is tightened securely before you start to see the tour.
A company's position

Operator firmly back into place, with enough tools in the correct order from the tower body stands in front of the permit without a left foot position. May be a bit, so a small tower near the left side of the body to rotate is recommended. In any case, but the body parts in contact with vehicles and a movement from right to left arms should be placed only be achieved through the body sway. () See Photos

Holding Tools

All the tools, but the change is not tight. Right for two reasons must be the last to grasp: first, as a possible leverage, so this tool out of hand will not be thrown to the forest where the hand lightly fluttering hand caught in the second year if other less variance in the best cuts for the road is not. Left hand and guides must be kept on the cutting edge tools. Small fingers and hands resting palm-back so that without touching the smooth movement of supplies. Tools are not always left to grasp. () See Photos

Using a Wood Lathe part 2

A good wood turning kit should consist of at least one each of the following tools. Fig. 2 shows the general shape of these tools:

1¼" Gouge	1¼" Skew	½" Round Nose
¾" Gouge	¾" Skew	¼" Round Nose
½" Gouge	½" Skew	½" Square Nose
¼" Gouge	¼" Skew	¼" Square Nose
½" Right Skew	½" Left Skew	½" Spear Point
1/8" Parting Tool	12" Rule	½ pt. Oil Can
6" Outside Calipers	6" Inside Calipers	8" Dividers
Slip Stone with round edges		Bench Brush

GRINDING AND WHETTING YOUR TURNING TOOLS

The Skew Chisel

The skew chisel is sharpened equally on both sides. On this tool, the cutting edge should form an angle of about 20° with one of the edges. Since the skew is used in cutting both to the right and to the left, it must be beveled on both sides. The length of the bevel should equal about twice the thickness of the chisel at the point where it is sharpened. In grinding the bevel, the chisel must be held so that the cutting edge will be parallel to the axis of the emery wheel. The wheel should be about 6" in diameter as this will leave the bevel slightly hollow ground. Cool the chisel in water occasionally when using a dry emery. Otherwise the wheel will burn the chisel, taking out the temper; the metal will be soft and the edge will not stand up and stay sharp. Care should be exercised that the same bevel is kept so that it will be uniformly hollow ground. The rough edge left by the emery wheel should be whetted off with a slip stone by holding the chisel on the flat side of the stone so that the toe and heel of the bevel are equally in contact with it. Rub it first on one side and then on the other. The wire edge is thus worn off quickly as there is no metal to be worn away in the middle of the bevels. The chisel is sharp when the edge, which may be tested by drawing it over the thumb nail, is smooth and will take hold evenly along its entire length. If any wire edge remains it should be whetted again.

Gouge

The gouge is beveled on the outside and ground so that the nose is approximately semi-circular in shape. The tool is a combination of the round nose chisel and the ordinary gouge. The bevel should extend well around to the ends so that the cutting edge extends to each side. This is necessary to avoid the abrupt corners which would be present if the nose were left straight across as in the ordinary wood-working gouge. In making shearing cuts the round nose permits the tool to be rolled to the side to avoid scraping the work. The length of the bevel should be about twice the thickness of the blade at the point where the sharpening begins.
The sharpening of a gouge for turning is rather difficult for the average turner. The ordinary gouge which has a square nose may be beveled by merely turning it half way around and back again. In working out the round nose of a gouge for wood turning, it is necessary that the handle be swung from one side to the other while, at the same time, the chisel is revolved to cut the bevel evenly. It is sometimes necessary to allow some people to use the side of the emery wheel in sharpening the gouge. This kind of grinding, however, does not leave the tool hollow ground as when the face of the wheel is used.
To complete the sharpening, the rough edge is worked smooth on a slip stone, the cross section of which is wedge-shaped and the edges of which are rounded. The toe and heel of the beveled side of the gouge are brought into contact with the flat side of the stone. As the sharpening proceeds the wire edge is worked to the inside of the gouge. The rounded edge of the stone is then placed inside the gouge and is worked back and forth until the rough edge disappears. Great care must be taken not to bevel the inside of the gouge when whetting with the round edges of the stone, as the result will be the same as with an ordinary chisel or plane bit.

Parting Tool

The parting tool is sharpened on both sides. This tool differs from the ordinary chisel in that it is between 5/8" and ¾" thick and only about 1/8" wide at the widest point, which is in the center of its entire length. The bevels must meet exactly at the center, or the widest point, and should make an angle of about 50' with each other. If the bevels do not meet at the widest point the tool will not clear, and the sides will rub against the revolving stock; the tool will be burned and will thus lose its temper. The bevel should be hollow ground slightly as then comparatively little metal need be removed when whetting.

Scraping Tools

The round point, square point, spear point, right skew and left skew are scraping tools, used chiefly in pattern work and sometimes in face-plate work. They are sharpened on one side only, and the bevel is about twice the thickness of the chisel at the point where sharpened. These tools should be slightly hollow ground to facilitate the whetting. Scraping tools become dull quite easily as their edges are in contact with the wood almost at right angles. After sharpening, the edges of these tools may be turned with a burnisher or the broad side of a skew chisel in the same manner that the edge of a cabinet scraper is turned though not nearly to so great a degree. This will help to keep the tool sharp for, as the edge wears off, the tool sharpens -itself to a certain extent. The chisel is of harder material than a cabinet scraper so that it will not stand a great amount of turning over on the edge. Small pieces will be broken out, unless a flat surface is rubbed against the edge at a more acute angle than was used in the whetting. If a narrow burnisher is used, pieces are more likely to be broken out from the sharp edge making the tool useless.

Using a Wood Lathe part 1

Size, 10 ", 12", etc. These figures diameter or size, their work can be considered part of the show as the biggest transformation of towers. Measuring center center bearing live in the tower (usually 5 or 6 ") and as a whole radius of the circle is taken. Each time round part of which can be rotated by the length to be determined. This living and the dead center of the point in time deposits at the back of the tower carries punta. Fig. 1 on the six major parties are listed in a tree, turning the show. you should know the names of these parts and special functions will be met by the individual.

CARE Tour
Before the tower every day, fat is required. , Then in bed, or a waste piece of cloth to remove excess fat and the time required would have laid all the chips at the end of the tower was working. All vehicles will be wiped clean and replace them. All vehicles must be kept sharp at all times.

SPEED Tour
Signal to the 2400-3000 revolutions per minute, will change, when conical pulley and small stage band. If this stock speeds up to around 3 "can be activated with any certainty. Stock" diameter 3 "must have been hit for 6 from the second or third, all the shares of more than 6" the last step. To speed depends entirely on the type of work and material usage, run with a rotation. As full-centric and rough edges can not be stuck with all work slowly, and inventories should be taken off the corners should be made. This piece is very high centrifugal forces, high speeds, cause the tower to vibrate, and part at casting is possible, and by return of risks to workers in these environments. Then you can run stock speeds should increase.

Lathe Speed

A general rule is the larger the piece (diameter or length) the slower RPM. In addition, a slower speed will be safer when working with unbalanced pieces until you have turned the piece basically round.

These tables provide a starting point or comparison between size and speed.

Spindle work Speeds

Lengths Diameters 6" (150mm) 12" (305mm) 18" (460mm) 24" (610mm) 36" (915mm) 48" (1220mm) ½" (13mm) 3000 2500 1250 900 700 700 2" (50mm) 2500 2500 1750 1250 700 700 3" (75mm) 1750 1250 1250 700 700 700 4" (100mm) 1250 900 700 700 700 700 5" (125mm) 1250 900 700 700 700 700 6" (150mm) 900 700 700 700 700 700

Units : RPM

Facework Speeds

	Depth
Diameters	2" (50mm)	3" (75mm)	4" (100mm)
8" (205mm)	1250	1250	1000
10" (255mm)	1250	1000	900
12" (305mm)	1250	1000	900
14" (355mm)	1000	900	850
16" (405mm)	750	650	600
18" (460mm)	650	500	400

Units : RPM

For older lathes:

TO FIGURE THE DIAMETER OF PULLEYS
Suppose a motor runs at 1500 RPM. and is fitted with a 4” pulley. Suppose also, a main shaft should run 300 R. P. M.
Then, 1500 : 300 :: x : 4; (that is : 1500RPM is to 300RPM as x is to 4)
You can write this as 1500/300 = x/4
or, rearrange to 300 * x = 4 * 1500 and then 300x = 6000. Divide both sides by 300 which gives x = 20; the diameter of the large pulley on the main shaft.
Suppose again that a line shaft runs 300 RPM, and a counter shaft 600 RPM. The counter shaft has a pulley 4" in diameter. The pulley on the line shaft must then have a diameter of 8”.
300 : 600 :: 4 : x;
Or, 300x = 2400, x =8”
Suppose the cone pulley on the counter shaft runs 600 RPM; a lathe spindle runs 2200 RPM, when connected with the small cone pulley which has a diameter of 3". The large cone pulley has then a diameter of 11”.
600 : 2200 :: 3 : x
Or, 600x = 6600; x = 11”

RULES FOR FINDING THE SPEEDS AND SIZES OF PULLEYS
1. To find the diameter of the driving pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driven by the number of revolutions it should make and divide the product by the number of revolutions of the driver. (20 x 300 = 6000; 6000 / 1500 = 4+ - diameter of motor pulley.)

2. To find the diameter of the driven pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of revolutions and divide the product by the number of revolutions of the driven. (4 x 1500 = 6000; 6000 / 300 = 20”-diameter of the driven pulley.)

3. To find the number of revolutions of the driven pulley:
Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of revolutions and divide by the diameter of the driven. (4 x 1500 = 6000; 6000 / 20 = 300 - revolutions of driven pulley.)

Wood Lathe Tool Rests - Use Them Safely

Based on the work program for turning a tree deceptive look simple. More like a banjo than a mobile base T a rule, this is not the best banjo players seem to cause remained. People probably a jam session, my friends never stood for three hours a week with fans of bluegrass banjo seems to say. But I digress. Even a simple problem has its own security and their accessories easy process.

First, this is a recreational vehicle to a location necessary to remember just another tool. Turning almost all the time, on board shaft of the tool. It should be noted that what about the rest on the lathe tool support for the front, led by May Turner hands, but never specifically which vehicles are required to be part of the hand under the tree. O beautiful, every time a situation calls for production of timber to catch the balloon's air and slams into a simple unexpected encounter on the edge of the tool into the tree was removed. This is the most surprising and disturbing. However, manually or a portion of the shaft and located between the narrow edge and can be extremely painful and can be cut into. Security solution is simple. Keep the hands behind the tool.

Fast and a few modern towers, wood lathes, power penalty, including a good dose of violence, action. Also, most of this wood is not centered or slightly rotate the first output inadequate. This wooden tool is switched on and beat a lot of orders or power under the tree can cause round. First engine start and clearly put the rest of work simply open hand timber. In addition, a good car control and a tool to reduce capture and leverage, a good fence to keep the work is located. Time set and hand movements and round recreational activities this transition tool to provide the rest have to be cut.

Or a key tool for many banjo bolt is operated with a lever is guaranteed. Before starting vehicle tours in banjo sure still make sure it is safe. Thus, to get to the screw is tightened. If others in the forest to catch one of the reasons they will loose if the pressure against the tool, a.

And finally, work at the end of the palm rest, should be especially large pieces of wood are working on. A great capture and the torque tool is easy and early injury can lead to empowerment. Use one at work because of it. Easily accessible by suppliers to the market good can be done with a welding machine.

As always the safety of this agent and all other accessories, common sense, dictate turning. Idea to be careful and have fun while promoting safety at work.

Screw Chucks on Wood Lathes - We Always Did it That Way

If Chuck's think about Drechsler these days most expensive model, four-jaw. But in the private sector centering chuck metal lathe is a new innovation. Turning the old Egyptians, the pyramids had their own image by at least initially is to put. Feed screw when it's usually the core of these cars,, and often open their own fast and cheap.

Simply go to the center and work to return a lathe chuck is a tool holding. Punta even be used, usually the baby is placed. For a single candle and candle sticks with a cup and a bar with a database set to keep hold.

To fit a wooden block and a long mirror is to reduce the size of the shell. He looks at the form and expanded to include the plug provided. To make a contribution lower decoration to provide a PIN switch is active.

Another piece of wood is placed between centers and candles can be converted with the root. Circular cone at both ends are cut bar. Each type and width of the screw or slightly larger.

Well, candles and a piece of wood large enough for the base and middle sections of smaller diameter of the screw for clamping a small mirror was a del. Wooden figures are less extroverted. Returned once part of the flat face and slightly concave. This sub-base and a concave base, the better should help.

Mandrel is removed and read pieces for distribution. Currently available for shooting the whole point of starting point. Once activated, it is easy to unscrew to remove only the bait. Screw holes through the lining of glass of the press and turn a short trip and ground will be used to meet expanded over the studs. He's still only one way to keep and objectives are valid.

Screw chucks extremely useful additions for accessories for wood lathes. This is a good indicator of the four wood manufacturers better, a screw, a modern tower belonging to the conversion into the lining of the past screw lathe chuck Chuck known.

CNC Wood Lathe

CNC woodworking projects can be useful for woodworking lathes have. Here you can create one-of-a-kind projects, among others, spindle railings and beautiful. Is no transition or hand lever. This computer works for you, all machines are operated.

CNC lathe wood or any wood hobby shop to shop might be a great addition. If the furniture or re-production houses, this may be the perfect device for you. This is not a machine, mold and pin excellent shape to use ramps or stairs, many other things to put into other projects such as the design to use.

CNC lathes can be used with wood or other materials. Aluminum and brass with a good wood lathe works. Materials used and many processes can be based will continue to work, and gives more opportunities for creativity and design. This machine comes along with a more creative and compelling customer work, may be an addition.

CNC lathes are available in different sizes, and the type of work is not usually associated with a start. Small models of bank and semi-mobile is available for download. Portability offers new potential for your business.

These towers are working on a spinning process, so always practice safety precautions must work with a lathe. CNC lathes and wood once it starts to run by the computer machine, the number of towers to make up the program provides the means. If you're not careful when working around these problems can cause big security problems.

This is what the machine may fall into a long-sleeved, make sure fatigue. Do not Wear watches or rings. In addition, the machine may want to be kept. Always maintain eye safety glasses, even to make sure no flying debris. This is just a good habit to introduce. Another good is to wear ear plugs all kinds of machines.

Other security measures before to set or change the machine's spindle speed, this machine is complete, there may be simple things like ensuring stopped.

When it comes CNC lathes, always make sure that the right tool for cutting materials. This is an important factor in determining the accuracy of the machine and once it has completed the finished product. Wrong tool can lead to disastrous results.

Wood lathe, CNC and to learn more about how they are involved in the process please contact your dealer. You can also answer any other questions. In addition, to reflect the nature and size of the machine, I want to teach you will be able to get jobs.

Wood Lathes - What to Look For When You Buy Your First One

Most people in the timber for a while, in good condition when they first purchase a wood lathe go participate. Such as the quality of a tree on the lot we woodworking lathe machines, seeking the same thing, and heavy equipment surfaces. However, some special things for a wood lathe and other powerful tools joinery is a view otherwise normal.

First, it is designed to absorb vibrations of a rotary machine to call. Many devices are now made of steel or aluminum. Regarding the effect of light or larger, can be done, but a comprehensive and expensive equipment is a substance needed to absorb vibrations. This is a problem, because something like a group of timber is processed to turn on the saw or table saw. In the second case, the wood, usually the form of commissions, on a sturdy table, properly made and is supported by a knife. Very little vibration parties were waiting for the blade balanced.

On the other hand on the wood lathes, wood and hold open and relatively high speed. Most wood rough and irregular. This way, such as a car tire swing. Rattle and swing the car, it passes. Wood Turning in the case, cast iron answer, and even cheaper than cast iron head and tail stock numbers beginners and some models will have an impact. Channels will be given the same low price and is usually worth it. Drechsler often, however, began turning a unique model of tubular steel and even cast iron with head and tail. Have worked hard to spin very well.

To meet the head and tail surfaces, and in the streets must be sufficient large. If the roads are finished, recreation center and a good team and go free. Thus, it becomes a pleasure. On the other hand, how much one or the other to do so cumbersome to carry a poor finish, and Turner disappointment.

Make sure the head and tail of the line-up. Bays and a center for each of them combines. Aim must be vertical and horizontal. Some towers, but these steps will be to align the center at the beginning of this rarely seen model.

All you need a good standard, the starting level is not turning or throat is steel plate. A solid wood or metal in both cases is the best bet realization.

These tips will help the trees turning first choice. This, like most vehicles, with the help of a good sales value in the first round is easy to obtain if you do not forget.

Choosing a Wood Lathe For Your Wood Shop

If a beginning carpenter, you probably are not ready for a wood lathe. But if its timber is under heavy equipment business with the right tools are under process, this tool should definitely accept.

Basic vehicle operation is very simple: put your business in this round, and revolves around. Then, to make wooden tools such as chisels and tubes use. Of course there is more to this tool. Planers HP, bed length, swing, and fixed or minute (RPM) per revolution, such as variable features distinguish itself. But the most important review Thorn. In return this position is a timber holding components. Piece of wood between the jaws Futterer screws you keep or if you want the opportunity to work directly Thorn. This is useful for re-, such as a wooden bowl to hold the end. Needs to determine what the most important functions for hours.

As much power tools, there are many trademarks for selection. Many of these names familiar: Delta, Craftsman, Ohio Forge, Grizzly, Jet, Oliver, Glaser, rikon, Stabilax, Powermatic, and Tranpower supernova. Probably, but so be sure you know your favorite brand secure votes if you really need to take note features. Turning a tree, no small investment, make sure you know your homework before buying.